Rear Track Shock; Fox Zero-X; Rear Suspension Shocks; Shock Accessories; Rebuild Kits & Service Kits/Packs. Slide the can into the cover with valve and a rubber cup. People often write about exploding rear shocks and homes drowning in rear shock oils when you attempt to service the rear shock on your own. Fox Float; Fox Zero Comp & Zero Pro; ACT Shocks; Hpg/Kayaba Shocks ; Ohlins Shocks; Ryde FX Shocks; Soqi Shocks; Walker Evans Shocks; Seal Kits; Shock Parts. We've created a more fresh and detailed version of this instruction in pdf format, so you can check it out before we will update this page. Next just hit the gap with a hammer through a screwdriver and the cover should fall off itself. Degrease the piston thread and the nut with a brake cleaner. As always, check your new parts before you remove the old ones. Before assembling the adjuster screw we lube its O-ring with oil. Quick View. Then you can pull out the sealing head and the main shaft from the tube. Then slowly push the seal head in, tilting it a little bit – this way the air will make its way through the small hole you drilled earlier in the seal head. Quick View. So we screw in  adjuster  and its locking ring until the spring will reach the desired dimension. Next you can loosen up the spring preload nut. Fox Racing Shox Rear Shock Rebuild Kit. The last step is putting the spring back. Finally we can remove the spring preload adjuster locking ring and the spring preload adjuster. Then comes the securing ring. Next we slide the piston up and down to pull out the sealing head. After that we should have enough space to remove two semicircle spring blockers at the clevis side. I used the wheel bearing grease – it is safe for rubber parts. Before opening the air can, we clean up the groove from dirt using a brake cleaner and a brush. After that put on the second cover and screw in the air can valve. In the end you should not see any little bubble coming  out during the shock compression. First we pump the shock until we remove all of the air bubbles from the oil chamber. Other options New from $18.00. When the seal head will be pushed enough you can mount the securing ring. For now we’re done with the body. Gratis Lieferung ab 29€ durch Amazon. Next we can unscrew the spring preload adjuster locking ring. If you decide that you also need a hammer for this step, then be gentle. Put the other slide bushing on the shaft and next the target slide bushing, which you want to push into the seal head. The first one was fitted to the dirt versions of DRs and had both the rebound and compression dampening adjustments. Simply remove the nut blocking the piston with a wrench. After those first dismantling steps, we can take care of the air can now. Assemble the air can valve just like you dismantled it. As you will see below, I just put a drill bit in the small hole in the cap and gently punch it with a hammer. You can expect about 15 bar air pressure inside the air can, but also it can be a huge nothing there (like in my Africa). Next we push the air can cap inside the air can until there will be enough space to insert the securing ring. I am using a pivot works rebuild kit, but I’m less than impressed with it. Finally, the last touch – we lock the adjuster thread using a point punch. For other parts – I used an engine cleaner. After that we fill the whole can with oil up to its edge and insert the rubber sleeve. Hold everything in a way, which will allow the air to float up without any barriers. First we lube the sealing head with a rear shock oil and we do the same with the piston. Work carried out by a Ohlins technician with genuine Ohlins parts. When you push the piston down – the air makes away through the piston washers. 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